Last fall, having just returned with a suitcaseful of spices from an inspiring trip to Georgia, I decided to take a group to this former Soviet republic bordered by Turkey, Armenia, Azerbaijan and Russia. When I threw out the idea in my newsletter, I received dozens of e-mails from students, subscribers and friends who were drawn to this off-the-beaten-path food and wine adventure. By chance the seven available spots filled up with well-travelled women, to the delight of our Georgian guide Natalia who had dreamed of organizing an all-female trip.

Our trip took place in early October, just after the grape harvest which happened a little earlier than usual this year due to a sweltering summer. We arrived in the capital just in time for Tbilisoba, an annual festival that celebrates the founding of the capital of Tbilisi. After walking across the Bridge of Peace, an impressive feat of modern architecture, we wandered through Rike Park next to the river, where skillful hands wove garlands with brightly colored flowers. With these in our hair, we suddenly felt much fresher after our long journeys. An efficient cable car costing 1 lari (about 30 cents) took us back across the river, allowing us to wend our way down through Mtatsminda Park, which offers striking views of the city…