“But the vibe in wine country is more like Tuscany without the tourists. And the austere Georgian method of turning grapes into wine is bold and beautiful. Out here, indigenous varieties of grape are plucked from the vine, lightly pressed, and stored in enormous beeswax-lined ceramic vessels called qvevri that are buried in the ground, protected for nine months in the stable “womb of the earth.” The process yields zingy, let-your-hair-down whites and reds — more herbaceous, naked, and wild than any of the buttoned-up bottles sold at your local liquor store…”