Here’s one way to discover Rome: Take guided tours of its architectural wonders, learning their history and marveling at their majesty. And here’s another way: Start walking until you’re lost, wandering neighborhoods where tourists never venture. Both ways are valid, depending on the experience you seek.

By the same token, there’s no question that a rigorous wine education starts with the study of the six noble grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling. They do, after all, make up the majority of the world’s most renowned wines. But there’s also no question, at least in my mind, that a whole other kind of understanding of wine comes from exploring the varieties that are unique to the more obscure corners of the world…