Zurab Chkadua was acting as the tamada, the toastmaster, for a traditional Georgian supra at his house in Lakhamula village in the Svaneti region of northwestern Georgia. The job is sort of like being both a pastor and a quarterback for a dinner party. He had just instructed us to raise our glasses and give thanks. “To our guests at the table,” he said, as we downed ample portions of amber wine in a single go. “We must also be grateful for this treasure God has given us.” He meant the cheese, which his wife, Ira Ansiani, makes in her kitchen, about 10 feet from where we were sitting…