Georgian cuisine is unique in so many ways — for its love of walnuts, beans and plums; for its mastery of boat-shaped breads; for its status as one of the world’s most ancient producers of wine. Georgians also have a special cheese culture, and sulguni is at its melty, all-purpose heart. Sulguni is a semi-firm fat disk of brined cheese similar in look and texture to low-moisture mozzarella. It can be made of cow or buffalo’s milk, or a mix of the two, and can also be aged or intensely smoked…